丽江 Lijiang                                                                                   Yunnan    
Lijiang is the largest preserved ancient city of the Naxi ethnicity and one of the major centers of Dongba culture. Naxi people descend from Tibetan tribes. There culture is rich and well preserved and they still to this day use an ancient pictograph written language (that is similar in appearance to Egyptian hieroglyphic language). It is the only hieroglyphic language still in use.

I had the great opportunity to meet and study with some of the local Lijiang Naxi folk musicians. Li Guochuan, a member of the Naxi Orchestra invited me to his home to learn more about the instrument he plays in the orchestra: Sugudu. Sugudu came to China from Egypt (via India) around the the time of the Tang Dynasty (600-910AD), an international period in China's history. The Sugudu, unlike other instruments from the Near East, did not travel and integrate into music traditions in different parts of China. So today Lijiang is one of the very, very few places in China (maybe the only place) where Sugudu is performed. 

I was attracted to the instrument for it's very unique timbre and sliding techniques. It is not a melodic instrument but rather accompanies other melody instruments by performing a concise set of short melodic figures that interlock with specific pitches in the mode that the main melody instrument is using. Mr. Li is a master Naxi folk musician and able to teach and play most of the instruments found in Naxi folk music. He invited me to stay in Lijiang for a month or so and study the Sugudu and other stringed and wind instruments in Naxi folk music. . .


Me with Guo Lichuan (in the red Jacket) and other Naxi folk musicians.
Performing Naxi Folk music (Mr. Li, red Jacket, is playing the Sugudu)    listen to an audio excerpt


Traditional Naxi Dance accompanied by the zhidi. . .         listen to an audio excerpt
Naxi hieroglyphic Script

















 

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